The title of this blog is in reference to a song that plays continuously on TV in conjunction with the World Expo. Have you heard of the World Expo? It’s an updated version of the World’s Fair and it’s happening in Shanghai for the next few months and there are enough monogrammed handles in the subway, posters on the wall of buildings and songs on TV to remind you, if you were here.
We spent a month teaching in Shanghai last year and I swore I would never return. I couldn’t handle the spitting, the babies peeing everywhere, the constant staring. Then the university offered us free flights, and to pay us to teach and suddenly we couldn’t turn down an opportunity to travel again. So we agreed! I brought all of my negative feelings with me and when first arriving here, I broke down and wanted to go home. This is not me. I sleep in mountain villages with no electricity, I take overnight buses that curve around hairpin turns a thousand feet over a valley, I bike through traffic in Laos and Vietnam. I do things that most people wouldn’t want to. And suddenly, I couldn’t get past our tiny, dark hotel room with two single beds (but they moved us two days later). So I wrote a cryptic short story and I put all of my negative emotions into it in a humorous way and I felt better. I needed to look at it with humor glasses on, and once I did, I could finally accept the oddities. I now find the spitting hilarious and egg them on whenever I hear the low guttural throat procession begin. I smile at children when they stare and often their parents smile back. I like the slow pace of the people, how they take their time sharing a meal with family and friends, or how they cross the street slowly, unfolding each footstep carefully. It’s a big city with a small feel if you choose the right places to hang out. Everyday is opposite day and once you know you’ll get the opposite of what you expect, it’s easy to accept.
We had a three day stopover in Tokyo on our way to Shanghai. I heart Tokyo. It’s everything a city should be and more. The food is out of this world, the shopping is almost too much and it’s clean, the people are super polite, the subway efficient, and the weather pleasant. We had a blast exploring the city and eating the best sushi I’ve ever had. Most of the restaurants don’t have English but you soon learn how to point and figure it out. Most Japanese speak some English, you just have to ask. The only downfall is that most stores carry a one-size-fits-all and I’m almost twice their size so couldn’t buy much. We met a great guy our last night that owns a delish restaurant called Jewel of India in Roppongi. We stayed at the restaurant until 1 a.m. talking and drinking beer. Thanks Sid!
I have mostly been holed up in our Shanghai hotel room working away at my last packet for school. And here it is: I finished my first semester of grad school in creative writing and I feel amazing! And what’s better is I have so many ideas and want to keep writing. And I can’t wait to start my next book, which is To Kill A Mockingbird. Yup, that’s right, never read it. I was a bad student in the days when this was probably a requirement.
Back to Shanghai. I wanted to make a list of some of the weird/funny things from this trip:
- It is easier to cross the street to our guesthouse in the middle of the road then at the crosswalk (it’s three lanes going each direction).
- Most restrooms have toilet paper this year.
- One of our cab drivers knew a few English words. He said, “Okay, thank you, you’re welcome, bye bye, welcome to shanghai” all at once as we exited the cab. He is the first cab driver we have heard speak any English in this city.
- We have learned more words in Chinese than any other language besides maybe Spanish. A few of these new words are: beer, baby (endearing to your sweetheart), check, green tea, dog, Shanghai University and fuckin’ great! On a similar note, I speak great Chinese sign language.
- This was heard second hand, but a cat was outside our guesthouse and a man took the cat and put it into a bag, like something that would hold fertilizer. The cat was screaming from inside the bag. Another man came up to the man with the cat-bag and paid him money to release the cat and he did. The man who paid the money even stuck around to make sure the other man didn’t catch the cat again.
- Ben and I drank snake blood and snake gallbladder. I wouldn’t say it tastes like chicken.
- We went to a nightclub and they stopped the dance music to put on a S&M show. The girls wore black skimpy leather and had whips. The guy wore a full face mask with a ball-gag. (I said, “that’s weird” to my student from last year who was with us and she said, “that’s very Shanghai!”
- I watched a man pee right outside our guesthouse, facing the road. I saw a little girl pee in the middle of the sidewalk and a little boy take a poo outside a popular tourist area where there are several bathrooms (with toilet paper!).
- I prefer chopsticks to a fork and knife.
- Turtle is quite chewy. It was served in a soup with snake. I guest turtles and snakes get along after death.
If you are in the market to visit Shanghai, please eat at Guyi (Hunan; the ribs are incredible!), Haiku (sushi; better western rolls than I’ve ever had in the U.S.) and Masala Art (Indian; great curry and good atmosphere).The food is fabulous in Shanghai and there is always a cute cafe to linger at with a book. They never shoo you away. The shopping is plentiful and I’m off to get my fill today!
And I’ll admit it, we might come back next year! I’m a little sad that we’re leaving on Saturday. However, we are going to an island in Malaysia called the Perhentians, then to Borneo for a two week adventure with Craig.
Please leave your comments! And happy life!
Ah, Shanghai.
I’m surprised you are having trouble with taxi drivers. I found most spoke a bit of English when I was there. But with the Expo and the Olympics before that, I’m sure they’ve had a flood of people joining the taxi fleet.
The sacred guardian animal of the north in Chinese mythology is both a Turtle and a Snake. At the same time.
You found good sushi in Shanghai! So jealous. I’m actually excited to get back to Portland where the sushi is better than in Korea.
Your menus sound unusual. You may have trouble finding those ingredients in PC. Although, last Saturday, Steve, Frank, Belle, Gracie, and I did see a snake (alive) at RV.
So, congrats that you made it through another stay in Shanghai. As the saying goes “Next year in Shanghai”!
Love you
Glad you turned your frown upside down! Have a blast and be safe in Malaysia. See you in July.
xoxoxo
Love to hear about your trip. Way to turn lemons into lemonade. The picture of Ben on the subway is the best! Wishing you safe and happy travels
And I thought my cooking was bad!! I am absolutely not up to snake in my diet. The last blood I had was in Scotland, Blood pudding and that was repulsive to say the least. What a strange combination of old and new–Shanghai. You made me want to visit Tokyo. Looking forward to seeing you back in PC.
Turtle is chewy. But so was my mother’s chinchilla. I’m glad you controlled your destiny and emotions and not allow circumstances to do so. I am proud of you young Jedi! You are learning faster than I expected. Great piece of writing. I think I’ll cut and paste some of it.
Much love from the 206.
Great story! You described Shanghai perfectly! I’m going to miss seeing you guys so often (which is weird that I see you more when we’re 7,000 miles away from Utah) and I’m definitely going to miss China!